09/12/2009-Wednesday
I left Santiago in Chile on wednesday and rode for 8 hours = 738klm, but when I got to the border crossing it was closed due to a landslide!!
I found aHostilaria 30klm down the road for 8000 Chile pesos which included soup, bread, chops and mash and coffe and then in the morning coffee fruit juice sour dow bread cheese and sausage, bloody bargain. Trade off was the room was a dump, but the people were very freindly and nice.
10/12/2009-Thursday
I now had to ride 780klm south to the town of Temuco and turn left for Villarrica and then upto the next border crossing that was open at Puesco.
At this crossing you pass by a volcano called Vol.Lanin
The crossing with customs was very quick and efficient on both sides, but the Argentinian side asked me for motorbike insurance for Argentina, (third party insurance) which I did not have and costs to much money anyway, So I gave him a copy of my Australian insurance and told him it covers all of Soth America, which he accepted and stamped my immigation papaers and passport into Argentina!!
Argentina customs accepted his stamp, but asked for my Carnet and stammped that in, and I was done!!
Total time at both Chile and Argentine customs and immigration. 35 minutes, pretty quick.
I know had a 575klm ride to the next town in Argentina a place called Zapala. I arraived at 11.35pm after a 15 hour ride that day I was knackered!!
04/ Jan - Monday
I changed my oil at a Moto garage called Pro Cross Motos, run by Pablo!!
I asked If I can use his garage and do the oil change myself, but buy the oil from him, no porblemo!, so I bought 2 litros of semi Synthetic oil and a can of chain oil, total cost 20, 000 Chile pesos ( AUD$44.00), and his wife made me a cup of coffee, now that’s service!!
Paulo leaves to head home to Brazil, as his wife has emailed him and told him that he has been away for a month now and in Brazil this can be considered abandonment and is grounds for divorce!!, Paulo, should know he is a lawyer!! HAHA
I bid him a fond farewell and will go visit him when I get to Sao Paolo in
05/ Jan - Tuesday
At the Petrol station I meet a German on a 400cc ex military green KTM, his mane is Detlef and is also heading to Puerto Natales, so we agree to ride together.
We arrive in Puerto Natales about
06/ Jan - Wednesday
I Ask Alejandro if I can get on a tour bus for Torres Del Paine national park as the wind is bad and I’m told the Rippio is not good, besides it will be nice not to be on the bike for a day.
I pay Alejandro the money and he books me in over the phone, and tells me the bus will come and collect me from the hostel in about 15minutes, so I get ready and at 8.00am await my bus, by 8.20am it has not arrived and Alejandro calls the company to find out what’s going on, only to be told that the receptionist is new and had taken his booking but forgot to radio the bus driver to come and get me..... Oh Crap!!
But Alejandro, being a top bloke calls his uncle, who is a taxi driver, who will come and collect me ad take me out to meet the bus at the first stop in the park for free.
Well, His uncle arrives in a grey people mover and I get in, no sooner have I closed the door, he hits the gas and we speed off, I’m pressed back into the seat with the acceleration, This guy must be 106 years old, but drives like Michael Schumacher, speeding through the streets, crossing the double lines, under taking, overtaking, while on the mobile phone!!!
I should have brought a clean pair of undies, like me mum told me too!!
In a flash we are out of town and driving down the Rippio in the national park, while I am trying to take photos of the mountains through the windscreen while trying not to look scared, while answering his questions about where I am from, going etc!!!
We Skid to a halt at the coach stop and I get out of the taxi wearing my blue cap and sunnies to step through the cloud of dust surrounding the taxi, to be met by about 50 tourists, looking at me like I’m some rock star!!!
This is how PIRATES roll......Respect.
I Find the coach driver, show him my ticket and he welcomes me aboard.
Off we go, this National Park is amazing, the mountains and landscape is massive, and the lakes range in colour from deep blues to Turquoise to light green, fed by the snow capped mountains and the glaciers.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO 07/JAN-ARGENTINA
13/ Jan - Wednesday
We pass through the Agentina aduana quickly and head the few hundred meters to the Chile side. Again we pass through here, quickly, which is great, and shortly after we enter the village of Chille Chico, which is an amazing place with a fair ground in the niddle of town, with the kids playing and a fantasticly well kept general park!
We find a cafe and order coffee, but on the menue is only hotdogs!!, but still we have not had breakfast yet and have been riding for 2 hours, so we order an Italiano hotdoag each!!
Well they arrive and these are not just hotdogs,, they have layers of avacado, mayonaise, chopped tomatoes, ketchup!!
Now before you run off and barf, don't knock it until you have tried it!
They are very good, so it does not take long for us to finish them, YUM!
We set off again and the pavement ends just outside town and the rippio begins, but it is asey rippio and the winds have dramatically reduced, with the sunshining, such a difference from the Argentina side, not 20klm away!!
We round a bend and are met with a stunning view of this enormous green rock, with amazing formations and it is green!!
The ride up CareTerra Australis, was a complete change from the Argentinian side of Patagonia.
The wind was drastically reduced, and the scenery incredible, the road condtions were improved although still rippio.
But it was the scenery we passed that was stunning, the lakes we passed by, where the water was a deep blue, the mountains were huge and snow capped with pure white clouds, deep green grass!!
We rode the narrow rippio track around the mountain with each corner bringing a new stunning view!!
In places the track edge had vanished and there was a very steep slope all the way to the bottom, with the hairpin corners with on coming trucks you can't see coming, you need to pay attention!!!, which is very difficult with the views!!!!
We rode to until about 5pm, when we reached a place called Rio Tranquillo, a small village right on the lakes edge, but we found a great little hostel; Hostel Los Pinos ; and we settled in for the night. We ordered dinner and I had the Salmon which was fantastic!!!
After dinner I asked if the salmon was from the lake, which they replied it was and was caught that afternoon, how fresh is that!!!
14/ Jan - Thursday
We set off the next morning, and again we are amazed by the scenery, and become aware of the various Sanctuaries to thr dead.
So we stopped at one, which was amazing, as it was next to a water fall and was for the service of Maria Aynsen , from 1937 - 1997, for 60 years service to the people of the area and also to the 7 people that died carving out the sanctuary from the rock face. Where people come and leave flowers and holy water and say prayers.It is quite a sombre but tranquil place at the same time, but is just on the side of the road!!
It was not long brefore the pavement stopped and the rippio began, and the track started to climb up into the mountains, we climbed up to 2300 meters, with stunning scenery!
The track now began to decend and progresively the track conditions worsoned, and then we entered the switch backs!!, a very interesting decent, highlighted by the massive grader machines blocking the track immedeately after the last switch back, and I had to take emergency action to avoid crashing!!
Well my Pirate skills, and Ninja like reflexes saved the day and I rode up the muddy embankment, along the top down into the sandy gully, between the portaloo and the fat man sleeping on a deck chair!!, finaly resurfacing on on the new bit of road they have just tarmaced, some 100 meters further along!!.
The man in the big roller was quite suprised to suddenly see me and a big Green Donkey leap onto the road infront of him, but not half as supprised as the three guys with brooms brushing theloose tarmac in front of me as they went into overdrive trying to brush the loose stuff out of my way......hahahaha..... reminded me of those ice curling guys in the winter olympics!!!!
After 6Klm the rippio stopped and the pavement began, just outside a small town. I rode along the main street until I saw a hamburger joint on the left and stopped to wait for Detlef, plus I was now hungary after all the exceitment in the mountains!!
20minutes later Detlef arrives, and tells me he got held up by the road works, to which I replied lucky you, I had to do the Dakar to get around it!!
So decided to eat at the hamburger joint. Now let me tell this is no ordinary burger joint, it is in fact two coaches stuck together, you enter via the first one,
make your order at the counter / kitchen
and then move into the second one through the archway cut into the sides of the coaches to the seating area....bloody ripper!!
We ordered the big chicken burgers with the lot and a coffee....check it.....
The food was damn tasty and this is an Awsome place!!!
You then exit out of the fron to the second coach.....
15/16 Jan - Friday/Saturday
The 90klm of rippio before the Puyunapi, were quite simply the best rippio I have ridden so far, the gravel road gets narrower until it is only a car and half width wide and the gravel turns to loose loam and mud, with rocks and washboard and potholes thrown in, while at the same time the forest and jungle around is encroaching into the road as it now becomes a track, but there is no wind and the track starts to switch back down hill.
I am listening to Iron Maiden, and getting into the flow of riding these conditions, and find myself in the zone where the music is fantastic the rippio technical and challenging, yet exciting at the same time.
20 minutes into this and I realise I have a massive smile on my face and cannot stop smiling, I am now flying along this jungle track, just missing the odd oncoming vehicle coming up, as the massive jungle ferns brush past my shoulder and handlebars!!
I am using all my off road skills and taking this by storm, sliding into the corners, foot out motocross stile, taking the bumps and jumps, pushing the heavily laden Donkey to its limits of suspention travel, braking, vibration, steering, acceleration, while at the same time I am moving my boby all over the bike for the correct weight distribution, control and counter balance!!!
THis is simply perfect, and I'm blasting along at 60kph, then hard on the brakes change position and slide the Donkey around the corner, just Bloody fantastic!!!
THen suddenly the jungle ends and I burst out into the open as the track straightens up and I take the sweeping gravel curves, dowmn to the coast line until I reach the town.
I pull to a stop outside a minimacardo, and go inside for a bottle of coke.
I still have this massive smile on my face and the old lady asks why I am so happy?
I tell her, as she smiles back at me, not really understanding why this would make me so happy, but then from behind there is a slow applause, and I turn to see an old boy with his pork pie hat and pipe, with a great big smile on his face, as he applaudes......... He knows......knows exactly!!!!
I sit on the bench outside and wait for Detlef, who arrives some 20 minutes later, with a big smile on his face.
We take one look at each other and burst out laughing.........We know....... know exactly!!!!
18/19 Jan - Sunday/Monday
We Arrive in the port town of Chaitien to be greated by a ghost town, covered in volcanic ash, houses buried half deep in the stuff, the road in has been cleared, but still at the sides are meter high embankments of volcanic ash and mud!!
As we ride throught the town to the port, we look up the side streets to see even worse, schools abandond, plat graounds empty, the hospital, devastated, homes in ruin, shops empty and not a bird in the sky!!!
A stillness comes over me, quite sadnening, sole destroying to think that one day this town was alive and thriving, children playoing, babies being born, neighbors gosiping over the fence.
THen in an instant this all changed foever on 2 May 2008, when the volcano erupted, spewing thousands of tons of volcanic ash into the sky and covering the surounding farms, villages and the town of Chaiten, pumeling the town with boiling volcanic rocks.
The town was completely flooded on May 12, 2008 after a lahar caused the banks of the Blanco River to overflow about 200 m on each side
Over the subsequent weeks, the river excavated a new course through Chaitén, completely destroying a significant part of it by July 2008.
However today small portions of the town are still lived in and the port is still functioning.
On the Monday we get the ferry to Purto Montt.
Chile - Santiago
We arrived in Santiago mid day, but Detlef had to keep going onto Valparisio as he was shipping his bike home from there, so we bid farewell and went our seperate wasys.
It has been really good riding with Detlef he is a great bloke!
I arrived bake at the Newen Kara Hostel after 1pm and checked in, it was good to get a god shower and a comfortable bed to sleep in.
I spent Friday looking for a place to get new tyres and the shims checked on the bike. I wanted to get replaceement Mitas tyres as these have been really good and are quite long lasting, but unfortunately no one had them in stock and couyld not get any for 3-4 weeks!!
Finally found a place that had Metzler tyres although are more expensive have a similar tread pattern and give good milage / kilometers of use.
I made a booking for 9.30am monday morning to have both tyres changed and the shims checked and also to have the chain and sprockets changed for the new set I had braought with me from Australia.
I returned on Monday at the alotted time, only to find that the workshop was closed, but the man in the shop said they would be here soon.
2 hours (soon) later two mechanics arrived and started work on other bikes, so I asked about why theyt are not working on mine to be told they did not know anything about my booking!!!
I go back in the shop and get the guy in the shop to call the shop oe=wner who with the head mechanic I had made the booking with on the previous Friday. I explain to the guy I am not happy and want my bike fixed, he tells me he will call the head mechanic.
Half an hour later the boss arrives, but no head Mechanic!!
I tell the boss if the mechanic is not here in half an hour I am leaving and going to the shop down the road!!
He calls the mechanic who arrives in half an hour, it is now 12.50am, and sets about the workshop, but then comes to tell me to bring my bike back at 2pm because they have lunch at 1pm!!
I walk into the the shop and infront of three customers shout at the boss, ( who speaks english) that this is complete bullshit, that I have a lot of work to be done on my bike and will be spending a lot of money, but not in his shop, because his mechaninc is incompetent by not making the booking on Friday as agreed, and a lazy barstard who only turns up to work in time for lunch.
I push past the mechanic and leave to get on my bike. The boss comes out as I start my bike and says he will get them working on my bike, I as when, I have been here three fucking hours and nobody gives a shit!!
I engage the first gear and start to move out of the gate, when the boss stands infront of me and tells me they will work on my bike straight away!!, I respond by saying this cannot be as mechanic is at lunch, but the boss says there will be no lunch as they will work on my bike..... Well ok then I'll stay.
THe boss then sets about shouting and pointing angrilly at the head mechanic and tyhe others. Five minutes late my bike is in the work shop with one guy doing the tyres, one guy doing the chain and sprockets, while I remove the crash bars and fairing (as they have to come of in a specific way and I know how), then two guys work on checking the shims..... NOBODY is eating lunch!!!
Just under two hours later all the work is completed and the bike is back together, repair cost is Chile Pesos $150,000 - (AUD $320, apx) with CHP$100,000 on the tyres (AUD$210) & CHP$50,000 on the labour (AUD$105), yes that is for 4 guys working on my bike!!!
When I road away the bike felt much better and so did I. It was 4pm when I returned to the hostel for a shower and to get something to eat!!
Welcome to South American service!!, be patient, but failing tha, take your money elsewhere, and all of a sudden your foregn money will get you sorted out!!
Sometimes money does talk!!!
25/January - Tuesday
Vina Del Mar.
Deceided to go to the beach today so. packed up me bordies and got on the bike and rode the 140klm to Vina Del Mar.
This baech is long and narrow, but has a great cafe for cold drinks / coffee and food.
I stripped down to my bordies and ran into the sea, the water was lovely and cool, compared to the really hot sun!
THe beach here as a very strange wave pattern, one moment it is all quite and calm then out of nowhere comes the big waves and strong riptides.
You really have to be carefull and there ar no swim between the flags here, it is upto your own common sense where to go and when to get out, which I like.
The beach does have life guards and after my swim I watched the guy stationed in my area and he was very busy saving 7 people in three hours in the stong riptides, he is very brave and a strong skilled swimmer.
However these guys are very underfunded and they do not have readios to communicate with each other, the watch towers or the rescue boat just of shore. THey do this via a whistle, which is completely useless for getting the attention of the rescue boat as the whistle cannot be heard above the noise of the people on the beach and the ocean waves crashing on shore!!
THe also. only have the old school donut life buoys, but despite all of this you cannot dispute their skills and courage in dealing with these condtions, this guy was awesome!!
This is one of the smaller the waves!!
Then the sea goes calm, while all the time under the watchful eyes of the life gurads
THen I could not believe my eyes I saw Arnie S. - ( aka - Commando) on holidays on the beach, he has really let himself go!!
Some things should just not be worn on the beach--- he relay needs to give up the role!!
I slapped on the old suntan cream and laid out, but as usual I fell asleep and awoke sometime later with sore legs!!
I had forgotten to put the cream on my legs and they were quite pink!!
So I put me pantolones back on and got something to eat and sat up at the cafe to watch the sunset!!
See the beach paictures, in the Picture Album.
28 / January - Thursday
The nest caouple of days my legs got really sore and red then purple and today started to swell up, DOH!!!
Here I go again!!
THe spots on my feet are where the gaps in my sandles were and these really got burnt!
I had a struggle to walk sown to the farmaci to get some anti inflamatory tablets.
After this they really swelled up and I could not walk on then for four days!!!!.....Ouch Ouch Ouch...
By Wednesday the 3rd of Febuary the follwoing week I was able to walk about, albeit, slowly and in some discomfort but I could get about... you little ripper!!
Chinese Exhibition
So I set of into el centro to go and see the chinese exhibtion of the museum La Moneda
It was os the two dinisties of Emperor Qin (221-206 BC), the first Emperor of China, and the Second Emperor Han (206 - 08 AC)
THere wer many incredible artifacts there, from Comes cut from Jade, to a complete bronze replica of Emperor Qin's funeral wagon and four horses, but you were not allowed to take any photos in here so I have taken some of the pictures from the Guide to give you an Idea.
If this exhibition comes to your part of town, do not miss out in going to see it!!
I managed to sneak in some shots of the clothes when the guards were dealing with a lost lost kid, so they are bot perfect, but the intricate designs are amazing, check them out here!
27 / January - Thursday
Well lying about in bed for a week got my mind wondering, and besides looking up on the net bike stuff and places to go I got to thinking about getting my second one, so started looking at designs, but eventually came back to my first thought and settled on that!!!
I set of this morning is search of a good place and a good artist!!!
I eventually found one after five different places, and went in to discuss my design and what they can do, the cost and I made an appointment for Friday.
After half an hour, we had agreed on a price and they new what I wanted and I was confident these guys were capable!!
I returned at 3pm on time and Sebastian set to work. Five hours later we were finished.
I thinks its awsome!!!
What do you think!!
And the final result after all has settled down
.
10/12/2009-Thursday
Crossed over the border with Chile at Puesco, and into Argentina, day was lovely, sunshine and the mountains are spectacular. At this crossing you pass right by a volcano called Vol Lanin.
Time was now getting on a bit at 7.55pm and I still had a long way to go.
I pushed on down the dirt road for another 57klm before hitting the tar road.Half an hour later I arrived in Junin de los Andes, a very small rustic town and there was nowhere to stay, so I filled up with fuel and headed for the main town of Zapala, some 250klm away.
The terrain in Argentina is quite different from Chile and in this part is quite baron and desolate, just as far as you can see rolling tundra with only a few scattered trees.
The sun was begining to set now and the landscape character changed with it, from a sea of grass to rolling shadows and a sky of wondrous colours.
The sky had turned a glorious mix of pinks, light orange, yellow and faint blue, and was set against a darkening landscape.
As the time rolled on it continued to change from this kaleidoscope of beautiful pastel colours to a darker twilight.
the landscape also began to change now with the vast tundra being filled by rolling hills and woodlands.
It was now very cold and the twightlight night sky had given way to the darkness, with the hills closing in and the light from my bikes headlight stretching into the enclosing trees on either side of the road, highlighting all sorts of strange and foreboding shadows.
It was now 10pm and on into the night I pushed, when suddenly the tar road stopped and the dirt began with the bike doing almost 90kph it began to fishtail, and I fought to get control.
I still had another 90klm to go on this dirt track and wondered, what lay ahead, what animals would wonder into my path, will the track get worse, while the temperature dropped as I pushed on up the mountain, into the cold darkness of the night.
With very tired eyes I strained to look as far as I could in the darkness for dangers, while feeling quite claustrophobic in the all encompassing cold night.
My hands, feet and face are frozen and it is difficult to react quickly on the bike controls, as the bike fishtails and skids on the dirt track trying to find some grip, but still on I must push must reach Zapala.
It is now 11pm and very very cold out here, when way of in the distance I see the glimmer of orange lights, of Zapala!
I am now descending steeply down the mountain, my eyes almost fixated on the orange lights, I long for a hot shower and a warm bed!
11.35pm I arrive into town to be overwhelmed by the mass of people, all these teenagers on their pimped out scooters with really loud exhausts and blue neon lights, shining from underneath the bike, some with lowered suspension, that when they apply the back break it scrapes on the floor sending orange sparks flying into the night!!
Quite extraordinary, so many people, the whole town must be out and about, cafes. restaurants pubs are full and the high street is packed with heavy traffic, and it is 11.55pm!!
I stop to ask a guy on a tricked out virago 250 for a hotel, but he insist we must go and get something to eat, but I decline and tell him I'm very very tired and cold, and must go to sleep.
He directs me to a hotel and at 85pesos for the night I'm sold and take a room!!
I fall onto the bed fully clothed and fall fast asleep!!!
Welcome to Argentina!!
11/12/2009-Friday
I arise early , shower and then work out via my petrol receipts and the klm I recorded on each how far I had ridden yesterday.
I had ridden 1355klm in 15hours!!, used 81.83 liters of petrol!
Bwoyakasha!!
I had coffee and a croissant in the hotel bar and set of for Viedma meeting 8.45am, some 800 klm away.
I arrived in veidma at 9.10pm and pulled into a gaserlineria for some fuel, and asked where a campsite was, and I was directed to the municipal campsite behind the municipal gun range and tonight was gun night!!
THe man in the campsite charged me 14 pesos for the night and showed me to my spot.
I set up camp and was then surrounded by gypsies all asking loads of questions I did not understand and pointing at the bike and tugging on my arm to go with them!!
All a bit scary it's 10.15pm, but then again this is early evening by Argentinean standards.
I said I would join them in 10 minutes and changed and walked over to their enormous bonfire with about 40 people around it adults and kids!!
I was nervous as I do not speak to much spanish and they speak very quickly and loudly, but I was given a cervesa (beer) and over the next hour had 4 conversations all at the same time in broken spanish and sign language.
I played piggy back with the kids and the grown ups showed me how to dance gypsy style, so it was only fair I should reciprocate and I showed then how to dance PIRATE style, which brought about roars of laughter, but all the kids joined in laughing their socks of, followed by the ladies!!
I eventually crawled into my sleeping bag about 3.30 am!!
I had a great night with some very friendly and happy people who have practically nothing and live in the campsite and work in the surrounding farms, great kindness and hospitality, I love the gypsies!
Yet another face of Argentina, awesome!!
12/12/2009-Saturday
Horizons Unlimited Meeting in Viedma 11-14/12/ 2009
I packed up camp and set of into town for a atm and directions to Balneario massini; however the first four people i asked did not know of it. Luckily a couple in their fifties pulled in a grey ute and the man got out to ask me where I was going, as I was studying my map at the time, and he asked in broken English.
I introduced my self and answered all his questions as to where I'm from going etc; He then advised that place no longer existed, and was now called El Condor and was a new beach town as of about 7 years ago, and was about 20klm out of town.
THe couple agreed to show me through town to the road to take to EL Condor, where the Horizons Unlimited Argentinean motorcycle meeting was being held.
I bid them farewell and wished them Feliz navidad (happy christmas), and set off along the road they indicated.
About 13klm down the road, sunshine and blue skies I notice a house on the left full of big adventure bikes and thought that can't be the meeting because it should be in a campsite by the beach and this house was neither.
I had just passed the house and took one glance over my left shoulder and it was strange that so many adventure bikes be in one spot, when i noticed I was being waved at by half a dozen people now in the front garden.
I hit the brakes and turned around, and not knowing if this was the right place I pulled into the long driveway and headed for the house.
Apparently the meeting had been moved to Oscar and & Nancy house (these are the organizers), and I was in deed in the right place and was just in time for lunch!!
Bloody perfect!
I was introduced to about 30 people and sat down for massive amounts of lamb and beef, roasted Argentinean style, yummy yummy in my tummy :-)
Later that afternoon, after some really interesting conversations with some very seasoned travelers, we head back to the campsite, right opposite the beach.
THe entrance to the campsite was up a narrow lane, with aprox 10 meters of deep sand!!
Everyone knew this but me!!!
I turned into the lane and was supprised to see so many people at the end looking to see who was arriving, but in fact they were there to see the spectacle unfold, which of course was me the newbie, suddenly being even more supprised by the deep sand and the bike starting to go down like the Titanic!!
I was unable to stop it and down ne and donkey went (Donkey is what i have called the KLR, in case you thought that was me), anyway, I hit the ground and when I got up I took a rather graceful bow, and was answered with raptuos applause and laughter!!
I made camp and made some new friends, Chris from Canada( on a 2004 KLR Kawasaki) and Paolo from Brazil (on a 1150 GS BMW).
14/12/2009-Monday
Left Viedma for Puerto Piramides on the Peninsula Valdes.
I stayed in the municipal campsite in the national park.
THat evening Annette (Yamaha XT600) & Nicholas (Suzuki DR350), turned up from Viedma and we had a BBQ pasta style!!
Next morning we set of into the park to go and see the Sea Lions on the beach and the Penguins.
Took some shots and some video, (will post shortly) in the Picture Album.
Was a god day out, with lots of sunshine and a cool breeze, and it was here that I got sunburnt because I forgot to put on my suncream....... DOH!!
16/12/2009-Wednesday
I Pack up and leave about 10.30am, and stop off in town to Check my mail before I leave.
After 20mins I return to my bike to find water coolant leaking from the bottom of the engine....OH CRAP!!!!
Closer investigation reveals a small hole in the feed pipe from the radiator and thermostat to the water pump!!
Luckily i'm opposite the petrol station and they have a garage area.
I ride the bike over and ask If I can use their garage area free to make repairs my self!
THey agree and I set about making repairs. I have to remove the pipe and in doing so loose about a litre of water coolant from the engine.
I have some magic tape and use this to rap around the pipe and seal the whole.
The repair and putting it all back to gether and refilling the radiator purging the air out and topping up the overflow bottle , from my camel back takes about an hour and a half!!
I set of for Tecka, but the wind is really bad, even though it is sunny and I only make 383klm in the head wind so find a great hosteria in the little town of Galman.
THe owner is called Pablo and his wife, who has family in Melbourne, is called Paula, and I'm Paul, how weird is that!!!
I'll leave tomorrow 17/12 Thursday for the 587klm ride to Tecka.
18/12/2009-Friday
Tecka to Perito Moreno
Left Tecka at 8.30am and hit the dirt after 68 Klm.
Winds are really strong today with gusting 60 Kph.
The road is in really bad condition with ruts and loose gravel interspersed with sandy sections which you cannot see due to being covered in fine gravel but when you hit that patch it’s new pants time, but onwards I push. On top of this the road is badly corrugated and you have to maintain a minimum of 60Kph to skim over them otherwise you get shaken to pieces while getting blasted by 50-60 Kph side winds!!
So I am skimming across this stuff while trying to keep control, now the best practice for this would be to stand up on the pegs, but when you do the wind catches against your body like a sail and tries to blow you over, so to counteract this I Have to stand on my feet but in a squatting position lifting my bum off the saddle while at the same time wrestling with the bike try to keep it going in a straight direction; it’s a bit like sitting in a chair then lifting your bum out of the seat while someone takes your chair away, and now you have to pick up your monitor and hold this off your desk at the same time. Do this for the next 5 hours!!
That’s what riding in these conditions is like, very tiring!!!
After apx 7 hours of this I came to yet another diversion in the road going left, now remember the riding position, and that the bike is listing to the right about 15 degrees into the wind gusts, it is not easy leaning this way and trying to turn left at the same time!!
I managed the bend and had gone about 10 meters and lined myself up on the left side of the road to take the right bend against the wind so I can take the corner at an angle, when the basrtered wind changed direction and I got hit by a gust from the left which blew me across to the right and into the right side gully filled with soft sand and gravel.
The bike dived down to the right and Instinctively I put out my right foot to steady myself which was instantly thrown back under the right pannier as it was coming down; I gassed it and the bike lunged forward and upright, but the back wheel now sank into the soft stuff and the bike dived to the left, so I gassed it again to try and correct this, but the bike lunged out of the gully front wheel airborne, the back wheel found some grip and the bike crashed down hard on the left side, the left pannier hit a rock and got ripped clean off the pannier rack with the force.
The bike came to a stop 5 meters on with my left leg trapped under the bike. I managed to drag my leg out and when I stood up my right ankle was very painful and I could not put much weight on it.
It was at this point that I noticed the pannier lying in the road 5 meters behind the bike.
You’ll see in the photos, how things ended up.
I then tried to pick up the bike but could not against the angle it was lying across the road, and with only one good foot to put pressure on, I managed to turn the bike length ways with the wheels now over the lower part of the road as it sloped into the gully.
I now struggle to pick up the bike and got it upright, where I could then push it into the right lane on firm terra firma.
I then set about trying to make repairs.
I assessed the left pannier and things were pretty bad.
The mounting Lugs were bent in every direction and the back side of the pannier where these are mounted was badly bent out of shape. The box was also not square, but bent at an angle.
I removed the bag and opened the pannier lid and it half fell off, one of the hinges had bent and come off.
The lid was split on three of its four corners and the box upper lip was also split, but on all four corners, though luckily not down any of the side welding.
I emptied the pannier and got out my tools, and tried to mend some of the damaged, with pliers and grips, but I needed a hammer, which I did not have.
I scouted around for a suitably shaped rock and found one, which had a pointed side, a flat side and rest was nicely rounded, and small enough to fit in my hand but big enough to have some weight to allow me to use it as a hammer to bang out the back side of the pannier.
Over the next hour I hammered away, trying to make things into a better shape so I could get the pannier back onto the rack.
Two hours in I truck came along with tow blokes who asked if I wanted a lift.
Two and a half hours later the pannier was back on, although rather shakily, with some extra straps for strength and support, I fired her up and she started... YEAH!!!
What was yet to be checked was if the steering was bent, but this could only be properly checked by riding.
Wooohooo!!!
Pirates rule!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
58 Klm later I arrived in Perito Moreno and found myself a cabana for the night at 9.30pm.
I got up to find water cascading through the ceiling!!!
10 minutes later he appears, and when I show him he runs off shouting, and arms flapping like Basil Faulty!!!
He returns 20 minutes later and says water will stop shortly and asks if I want another room.
AARRGHH ARRGGHH.
19/12/2009-Saturday
Perito Moreno to Gobernador Georges
Left Perito Moreno Cabana about 8.30am after sleeping in.
This will make stopping and riding difficult and painful, but still should be able to use the rear brake like this so this will do.
The lid is cracked open on three corners and the box itself is split open on four corners, but luckily only on the upper lip corners and not down the sides.
I also need to get the back side of the pannier, where the mounting lugs are flattened out so that the lugs will sit flat against the pannier rack.
Anyway, the first fabricators would not tough it and suggested a mechanic.
I got lost looking for this metal mechanic as he called him.
He invited me into his warehouse which was basically a builder’s warehouse.
A man called Pablo set about beating the hell out of the pannier with the tools and slowly things straightened up.
I loaded back up the pannier with my stuff and just for extra strength for the top lugs I used a small strap to tie around the top pannier plate and the handle on the rear top box rack, this pulled the pannier in that last bit and nice and flat, Excellent.
The main man that helped me was called Julio and he offered me a Mate, which is a tea Argentineans’ drink, where you fill the small cup with herb Mate tea leaves and fill with water; you then drink it through a special metal straw with a filter in the bottom.
Mate tea is said to be (All of Argentina in a cup), and I must admit it is pretty good.
I couldn’t have met a nicer bunch of blokes who went out of their way to help me and when I asked how much do I pay for their time for helping me they steadfastly refused.
Time now 12.30 pm and I have a long way to go!!
First Fuel stop 138 Klm, second fuel stops 363 Klm @ Gobernador Georges and my end for the day, time to find a bed for the night.
Tomorrow may be better.
20/12/2009-Sunday
Gobernador Georges to El Chalten
Left Gobernador Georges at 10.30 am bound for El Chalten.
I had done over 500 Klm of road yesterday and I had another 200 Klm to do today, but today the winds were bad again, and I’m having difficulty standing up on the pegs and shifting my weight around because of my bad right ankle from the accident on the 18/12.
Just over 100 Klm in I got caught again by the winds, funny how the wind seems to know exactly the right moment to blow at 60-70\ Kph and it is always when the road condition is at it’s worst, deep loose gravel with car track ruts and all of a sudden you are being blown sideways across this stuff!!
The front wheel is going one way, the back another, me desperately trying to get control and find some grip in the middle!
| went down again this time on the right side, but thankfully I managed to scrape of a lot of speed before hitting the dirt.
My ankle is killing me and I struggle to pick up the bike into a vertical position, so I can then start her up and as she is still in gear walk and drive her onto the main part of the road, and some solid terra ferma!!
Now check damage, not so bad a few scrapes and scratches and the back side of the right pannier is slightly bent in, but the mounting lugs are all still flat on the pannier rack, bloody fantastic!!
Now to put all me stuff back on and get going.
Just as I ask if I can get a cup of coffee, a man come out of the cafeteria and asks in English where am I from. When I say Australia he says that he lived in Australia for seven years and played Rugby, how amazing!
I go into the cafeteria and order coffee, and then go to the loo.
I bid farewell and hit the dirt again, just another 120 Klm to go, but luckily after 5 Klm the dirt stops and the tar road begins....... Fuck Yeah!!
A cold and windy 115 Klm later I arrive in El Chalten, and find myself a backpackers hostel for 40 Arg/pesos for a bunk per night. Tomorrow I hope to go on the boat on Lake Viedma to see the Viedma Glacier, but now time to sleep and rest my now really sore and swollen right ankle.
21/12/2009-Monday
It has rained all of last night and all of today, so no chance to go and see Mount Fitzroy or the Lake Viedma Glacier.
So stayed in and tried to do some web stuff but the internet in this hostel is ridiculously slow.
I am updating Captains Log on word and will upload when I get a good connection, internet speed here in Patagonia is really bad!!
As I type there is a little kitten running around on the table playing with everything and no one is really getting anything done as kitten is really cute and funny, so is getting a lot of attention!!
Will have to head of tomorrow as I have to get to Ushuaia in Tierra Del Fuego at the end of the world (bottom of Argentina for Christmas, that now leaves me 3 days to do about 1000klm, over tar and dirt roads in wind gusts upto 60kph!!
22/12/2009-Thursday
I head off at 9.00am for El Calefate, some 218Klm further south and filled up with fuel for Donkey and a nice hot cup of cafe con leche for me, it was very cold and raining so I stopped for this and met some dutch travellers on BMW heading north, so we talked for a while.
It was now 1.00pm so I bid farewell and set off again.
The ride pretty un eventful the road was all tar and the landscape was all rolling tindra and pampas grass, which gets a bit boring, so to keep me awake and entertain myself I selected the best of AC/DC, and for the next two hours rode along singing my head of and head banging to these legends, blasting in my ears, much to the amusement and wonder of the passing cars and lorries!!
I reached the town of Rio Gallegos and pulled into a petrol station, at 4.15pm after a 305Klm ride of just over 3 hours.
I found a hotel for 150Arg/pesos for the night and had a very welcome hot shower and a soft bed for the night.
23/12/2009-Friday
Left this morning about 10.30am and I reached the border crossing at Monte Ayond to cross into this part of Chile.
Got my carnet stamped out, imigration passport stamped and had the agricultural guy (SAG), check for food and plant stuff you are not allowed to take from Argentina into Chile, one of which was my small pot of natural honey??
I said to the guy, why can I not take my pot of natural honey into Chile and he said, in quite good English, because it can contaminate the Chile honey bees, (now folks imagine you are on one side of your local high street with your pot of honey and the law says you cannot cross the road with it as on the other side it is illegal), I am on the same peice of land!!, anyway as if a gift from the heavens, a massive bee flew right past our heads and we both ducked out of the way, oh yeah the bee was flying from Argentina across the border into Chile, so quick as a flash I say to the SAG guy, how come you do not stop the bees from flying across the border, with their honey but you stop me, a bit silly really isn't it, to which he replied an a very stern voice, that is not funny, now go away!!
So I was kicked out of Argentina and re-entered Chile!
I reached the port of Punta Delgrda about 45mins later and waited for the ferry, when a bike pulls up behind me and it is my brazillian freind Paolo, who I met at the Horizons meeting ten days ago in Viedma!!
We crossed on the ferry and re-fuelled at a little town called Cerro Sombrero,(which means close hat)??, oh and another strange thing about this place is you enter on the right side of the road on tarmac, and you leave on the same road,again on the right side, but heading north, and the road is gravel, I mean honestly, what bloody idiot only paves one half of the road!!!
Well for the next 3 hours we ride this gravel and muddy track to the next border crossing out of Chile, it is now 7.30pm and Paolo now discovers that he has left his identicard back at the othe crossing some 3 hours and 140Klm back!!!
He manages to perswade the immigration to call the other border and check if they have it, which they do, but want him to go back and get it!!
What!, not bloody likely, and in his best spanish /Portugese, he talkes them into giving his ID card to a car coming this way and he will wait for it.
We agree that it is best if I keep going,so I bid him farewell and good luck.
13klm after that I reach the border into Argentina?
If there is a 13 gap of land between the Chilean and Argentinean, who the crap are the people living in the middle!!
After this crossing it is all tar road and I push on quickly at 130-140Kph to get to Rio Grande before dark.
I find a 1 star hotel the GPS reconned was the closest and when I enter the foyer I am greeted by a very nice man in a suit, who walked a bit light on the step and with a certain sache about his manner,( the hairs on the back of me neck stood up and me sphyncture tightened), when he reached the counter and swung around I quickly asked in my best polite spanish how much does it cost for a single room for the night, he in a very softly tone replied, 220 Arg/pesos for the night!!
At this point the old london dispatch rider burst out me and I said in a loud pommie accent (HOW MUCH???), and turned and ran out the door, leaving nothing but a full shaow of myself in dust standing in the foyer, as the rest of me lept onto the bike and spead of, before the door had even closed behind me.
I eventually found a briliant hostel called Hostel Argentino, ten minutes away, for 50 Arg/pesos for the night, and also met a couple of other bike travellers, but thats for tomorrow.
Time for bed !!!!
24/12/2009-Saturday
Met a couple of guys in Rio Grande, an Canadian called Rcky, living in the USA and a Dutch man called Sanders, and we road from there to Ushaia.
Sanders hasw bee travelling in S.Am for the past 17months, and is heading back to Buenos Aries in Feb to ship back home, while Ricky is heading north in brazil and the Amazon, via the Gyanas, before heading home to Idaho USA.
We set of together in the morning for the 210 Klm ride from Rio Grande on the coast, up into the mountains, through Garibaldi Pass, ( bet you didn't know Garibaldi was a man who found his way across the range and set the trail for Ushuaia, and not hte guy the buscuits are named after, even if they are yummy), anyway, we arrived at the servo at the end of town at 2.20pm and filled up, where we met a French couple on a (BMW GS100), and chatted for a bit, then we set of for the campsite Ricky and Sanders were boked into, and as I didnot know where the Rio Pipo campsite was I tagged along.
Well the campsite is really nice, up on the hill above the old part of town, with great views of the surrounding mountains and across the harbour and bay.
Plus it's only 22 Arg/pesos per night to camp, thats about AUD$7.00, you bueaty!! (that the pommie bit of me agian!)
Well I made it the city at the END OF THE WORLD! in the next couple of days after Christmas I'll head the 30Klm down to the END OF THE ROAD, in the national park.
FELIZ NAVIDAD (HAPPY CHRISTMAS) to you all!!
25/12/2009- Sunday
I spend this morning going over the bike checking for loose nuts and bolts and what has been damaged or broken and the damage report is as follows, my roo plate is broken in half and I'm surprised that the AUS plate is still attached / the lower sub frame bolts are loose / the top pannier rack bolts are loose / the Scott oiler has stopped working / left pannier is still bent but mounted although again the top mounting lugs are loose / the right pannier is slightly bent and the top mounting lugs are loose / back tyre is down to about 2mm in the centre tread / various scrapes and scratches on both handguards and the most serious is I find that the mount that holds the rear suspension adjuster has come loose and dropped down, which in turn has lead to the hydraulic hose from the adjuster to the rear shock to rub on the bike frame and it rubbed all the way through and the oil is all over the back shock...... Bugger!
It is Christmas day and nothing is open, So I will have to wait until tomorrow and try and find a bike shop that is open, never mind whether they can actually replace the damaged hose, refill the shock with the correct oil and re-charge with nitrogen gas!!!
So I make repairs to all the other stuff, and fabricate a new bracket for my AUS plate from the broken one, make some new mounting holes in the metal with my Leatherman and mount to the back of the Scott oiler, all good.
Now off for a beer with the guys and time to celebrate Navidad.
26/12/2009- Monday
Fernando, the camp owner advises me of a good bike shop in town, called, (Pablo Motos)!!
So I head down there only to find it is closed, but I leave the bike running and get off to look on the door and windows to see if there is any opening times, when Pablo comes out of his gate to his house adjacent to the shop to see what is going on and I explain and show him what is wrong.
Pablo tells me he can fix but to come back at three o’clock.. BRILLIANT!!
I return at three o’clock and Pablo introduces me to his wife who also speaks some English, so explain the problem and what need to be repaired and ask for Pablo to make a shorter hose, so it cannot rub on the frame again!
This she translates to Pablo who say no problem, but to come back at 10.00pm tonight to collect.
I return at 10pm and Pablo shows me the shortened hydraulic hose and how he has curved it so it will not rub on the frame again, he has repaired all good, but has set the preload on the collar to high at least 40mm and the suspension is rock hard, whilst the seat height has been raised so much that I can barely touch the floor with the tips of my toes!!
Where are RAYMUNDO’S Platform shoes when you need them!!
I do not mention the incorrect preload, as I do not wish to offend him and I can fix this myself, back at camp. I pay Pablo the 600 Arg/pesos (AD$180), for the repair and ride off back to the campsite hoping I will not have to stop at any traffic lights in the one way system as I can’t easily reach the floor and this would be very embarrassing to fall off when stationary at the lights, (it would not be the first time, but that’s another story)!!
I arrive back into camp to applause from my compadres, followed by close inspection of the work and giggles as I struggle to park the Donkey!
Well time to celebrate with some BBQ steak and chips on the open wood fire, and a cold beer!
AARRGGHH AARRGGH
27/12/2009- Tuesday
This morning I took off the read shock and turned the adjuster collare back to the correct setting of 15mm of prreload from the 40mm of prelaod set by Pablo,k then refitted and I can now reach the floor, as well as the rear of the bike no longer bounces around as I have proper preload on the spring, Brilliant!!
Now for the next disaster, I have have lost my Visa Card!! Bollocks!!Search through everything five times and nothing, but when I tell my Friend Paulo he says that his Visa card has also gone missing in the last two days, same as me!!
something dasrteredly is a foot!!, so we approch Raul on reseption and tell him of our missing cards, which he is concerned about but cannot really do anything as a lot of people have come and gone from the campsite in the last two days.
He suggests that he can call the Police and get a report filled for us, but again there is nothing they can really do!!
so we set off in a cab into to town to find a locoturio, (international telephone exchange and internet shop), so I can call Australia and get my card stopped, and a new one issued and sent home!!
I´ll arrange to get this FedExed to me when I get to Santiago in Chile!!
Thankfully I have another credit card I can use, so can manage!!
Lesson Learned, do not laeve cards in wallet in jacket pocket in your tent, prevent them from being stolen by wedgeing them between you BUTT CHEEKS and squeeze tightly, You will always know where they are and when dome scum bag tries to take them!!
28/12/2009 - Wednesday
Today Ricky / Sanders ad myself rode the 30klm to the End of the road (route 3), in the national park, but so as not to pay the 50 pesos entrance fee we leave at 8pm and get there for 8.30pm so the guards are gone and we get in for free!!!
We take our pictures at the sign at the End of The Road, this is obligatory!!
See Pictures!!
01/ 01/2010 - Friday
Spent New Year’s Eve having a dinner at the campsite and toasted the new year with some champagne!!!, and good company. After one in the morning most people left the dining hall and returned to the bar or their campsites, as did I.
However, the guys camped next to me; two Brazilians and a German were having a bonfire and beer and asked me to join them, which I did. Some conversations about music and more beer followed, until I suggested we need some music playing, which the German took as his queue and opened his van and turned on the stereo to play his mp3 disc of variety of music!!
Well as various 80’s and 90’s pop and rock played and more beer followed, the beer took hold and the singing started, by me of course and it is now 2am!! To
This was followed by Bon Jovi – Bad Medicine / Eagles –hotel California / Rolling Stones –I can’t get no satisfaction / The Cult – keep your motor running / Billy Idol – Money Money / Nirvana – Smells like teen spirit / Europe – final countdown / Nickelback – Animal; the bonfire casting our shadows on the trees behind of our air guitars , drums, and Herbert on tambourine; as we all sang loudly and the music blared, until out of the blue, Whitney Huston comes on, and well it is now 3.30am and two Brazilians / one German / one Australia, pissed as, start singing at the top of our voices.................... ANNN’ IIYYYEEEEIIYYYEEE VILL HAALLVAYS LLLUVV WHOOOOUUUU!!
Well if we hadn’t pissed off the entire camp already this DID it and many Shut the F**K UP / SHUT UP / I’m going to kill someone in a minute / and various other terms of endearment followed along with a SLIPPER?, that HIT ME in the back of the HEAD!!
Honestly who brings a bloody slipper camping!!!
Bloody NINJAS!!!
So I threw it on the bonfire and shuffled off to bed, good night everyone and happy New Year!!
02 / January - Saturday
I arise at
We arrive at the Chilean Aduana and clear immigration and customs, but it is now late so we book in at the hostel just over the border in
We wake the next day early, only to be greeted by horrendously strong winds, so strong we are having difficulty standing upright, winds musty be 70-80kph!!
We agree it is crazy to ride in these conditions especially as we have also to cover 85klm of Rippio (dirt track-roads) in this.
Paulo suggests we walk back to the Aduana a klm back to see if we can find a truck we can put the bikes on the back of and get to take us to the Ferry at Punta Delgarda, but after three hours, we have no luck and the winds have increased to 90klm+, blowing through the Aduana gate house that people cannot open their car doors against the wind, and the guards help to pull the doors open!!
We return to the Hostel walking into the wind and it takes us 45minutes of struggling to walk a klm!!
We sit out the rest of the day in the hostel and make conversation with the other patrons! We will try again tomorrow, weather permitting
03/January- Sunday
Again we wake early and step outside to the bikes and bloody ripper there is no wind!!
We quickly pack and set off, up the Rippio. About 30klm in we round a bend and have slam on the brakes as the road is blocked by a herd of sheep, with the sheep herder’s on horseback, with a car stuck in the middle!!
While waiting on the ferry I notice a sign, saying (Danger Minefield)!!!, on the bank right next to where we are parked!! See pic
We reach the ferry and all is cool, although the wind has picked up some, but nothing we can’t handle. 
We arrive in Puerto Arenas and find a Hostel and get a twin room to split the costs, check out the view from the window!! and you think We fuelled up and set of bound for Esperanza our next
fuel stop some 283KLM away! Disaster, when we arrive at the Petrol station, @
12.45pm we are told that there is NO FUEL, but they expect a tanker about, 3pm.
Well there is nothing we can do but, wait as we do not have enough fuel to get
to El Calefate or return. We head across the road to the cafe for coffee and
empanadas, or a burger!! Well 3pm comes and no gas, so we now join the queue of
cars in the petrol station, so we wait, and wait and wait, but each time we ask
the time scale keeps growing. Now it starts to rain, so we shelter in the cafe in
the station, but as the coffees arrive, so does the tanker, and I kid you not,
everyone applauded, but the tanker was not full and there may not be enough for
everyone! However, we are forth in the queue so we should be
alright, we hope. Well we fill our tanks and our reserve tanks, as we
fear that there may not be fuel in El Calefate either!! Time is now 8.05pm and
we have waited 7.20minutes for fuel!!
Advertisement for
w for the 3 hour ride to El Chalten, as the wind picks
up and sunsets!!
We manage to find a hospidaje just after 11pm!!
08/09/Jan-Friday/Saturday
We find a cheaper hostel, called Hostel Argentino,
which is a great place!!
We make arrangements to go on an hour cruise to see
the Perito Moreno Glacier, the next day. Later that afternoon I’m approached by
a Chap, called Fernando, who asks if One of us could give him a lift to the
glacier cruise as the bus does not come until later and he may miss his
afternoon flight!
I offer to take him but, he will have to get a crash
helmet from someone, as I will not take him without one, for his safety. We
also advise him that although the boat is scheduled to leave at 10am, we cannot
guarantee this and are prepared to wait until it does, which could still cause him
problems as he has to be back by 2 pm to get the bus to the airport!!
He says, he will try to reschedule his flight for later and let us know!
No worries and I tell him to be ready for 8.00am
We are ready the next morning and Fernando appears
with crash helmet in hand, so all groovy. We set off for the 80klm ride to the port.
The boat leaves on time and the glacier is amazing!!
It is huge, with amazing mixture of blues!!
The
Perito Moreno Glacier is one of only three Patagonian glaciers that are not
retreating. The terminus of the Perito Moreno Glacier is 5 kilometers
wide, with an average height of 74 m (240 ft) above the surface of
the water of Lake Argentino, in Argentina. It has a total ice depth of
170 meters (558 ft). This ice field is the world's third largest
reserve of fresh water after the polar ice caps, and the Amazon Rainforest.
The
Perito Moreno Glacier (50°29'S 73°03'W? / ?50.483°S 73.05°WCoordinates: 50°29'S 73°03'W? / ?50.483°S 73.05°W) terminus
Santiago - Time for my Second one
While I was laying around waiting for my legs to heal I started looking a designs for my second tattoo that I have wanted for a long time!
I chose this one!!.....I absolutely love it.
I got it done at Clinic Brava, by a really good tattooist called Sebastian, their srudio is just on the corner from the los leones station
What do you think?
