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I DO NOT guarantee the success of any work done using them.

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Fuel / Cost/ KLM LOG

BRAKES

I replaced the Standard Brake rotor for the large 320mm EBC replacement disc http://www.klr650.com/OversizedFloatingBrakeRotor08.htm , from KLR650.com,http://www.klr650.com/partsandaccessories08.htm

I found that the standard disc was good enough for one up with luggage, it lacked stopping power when stopping from speed 120kph, under progresive braking. this became far more prominent when I was two up with luggage fully loaded, with my trip equipement.

I opted for the larger disc to give a better braking radius.

I fitted this and used my original brake pads, with less than 4,00klm on them, and while braking was improved in the dry, there was serious brake fade in the wet.

I bought and fitted a new set of kawasaki front pads to eliminate the possibility of old pad new disc compatibility issues, but the problem persisted!!

Not what I had hoped for. Now came the trial and error testing using different manufacturers and types of compound, before I found that magic one that work great in the dry and good in the wet and eliminated the brake fade issue. Galfer brake pads, the green backed Kevlar based  (G1532) off road pads worked perfect, http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/Galfer-Front-Brake-Pads-for-Kawasaki-KLR650-08--plus---KDX-250R-and-KLX-250S__BRK-spc-FD086.aspx , you can get these from Happy-Trails, http://www.happy-trail.com/Departments/Make-Model-Specific/Kawasaki.aspx

Or you can order them from from your local dealer in Australia, who can get them from Wayne Gardener enterprises, who are the main importer in Australia.

THis is the best set up on the front, really good stopping power and a good response feel in the brake lever.

I fixed two spare sets of pads to my bash plate and foot peg/ engine plate, which I got from Happy trails, after drillinh the holes and bolting on.

see pics for size difference and the adapter plate that comes with it, to move the caliper back, with extra bolts to mount the adapter to the fork and you use your original bolts to mount the caliper to the adaptor,  it ia all a very good design and fit!!, no need to make any changes to your brake hose.

As I said you do not have to change ypour brake hose, but as I am on a two year trip, I did not want to chance the standard hose getting punctured or rotting, plus I know from experience the braided hose also improves braking, so I got some made for the KLR in Australia.

I am pleased with this set up it really works well in both rain and dry, when fully loaded and two up, easly get nice progressive breaking with only two finger pressure on the leaver. When one up and no luggage you get the same with only one finger preseeure!!

THe rear brakes I left original, rotor and pads.

Now, on the 08 the front and back brake pads are the same!!, so  I can use swap pads around if neccessary!, but I will try to keep to Galfer Green pads on the front and Kawasaki / EBC Black pads on the rear.

This works for me!

I also fitted the rear brake pedal mount and rear master cylinder guard from Happy-Trails.

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/KLR650-Billet-Aluminum-Rear-Brake-Mount__HTP4-1-12.aspx

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/Kawasaki-KLR650-Rear-Master-Cylinder-Guard__4-1-12-1.aspx

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FLIGHTDECK

Handle bars

I changed the standard bars for some Renthal high rise bars, 7/8th, but remember to make measurements for the standard bars, and how much straighter the replacement bars will be, along with height and bend, before you go out and buy.

now I used Renthals because I have used then before and like them, but you could used TAG bars also.

I also , fitted anti vibration handlebars risers from Happy trails,
 http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/Rox-Anti-Vibration-Risers-for-Dual-Sport-Bikes__44-8450.aspx


THis gives a 2 inch, 50mm rise,along with forward and back adjustment at the top brace and again in the riser handle bar mount, so you can position them exactly where you feel is the most ergonomic for you.
Now all you tall guys theis may not ne for you, but for me at five foot six inch and a short reach this is a good set up. The other advantage of this is that in the standing position you do not have to lean forward very much to get a good reach!! and  a good upright position that is comfortable to hold for a long period.

12v Accessory socket

I bought waterproof external socket from a bike shop and fitted it using the fitment diagram that came with it, but also I wanted it wired to a seperate switch and not to be powered directly from the battery.
In this I mean I wanted power to the socket switch only when the ignition is turned on, and then the serperate switch is truend on.
THis was a security feature so it could not be used when the bike was not switched on via the ignition.
I used the wiring diagram from http://www.klr650.marknet.us/
This is a very good site by another great guy on the KLR, go have a look.
THis is the word doc from that site, I used to wire in the seperate on/off switch.
12V switch wiring diagram

I also bought the dash panel bracket from Happy Trails
http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/2008-plus--Kawasaki-KLR650-Dash-Panel__HTP4-8-15.aspx




I fitted my swith to this. I bought a switch with a tiny red LED light on the button, so I could easily identify it as on when riding both in the day and at night.
I mounted the actual socket in the middle of handle bar mounts on the bottom bend of the handle bar.
THis made it easily accessible while riding, but not in the way of anything, and did not make contact with my tank bag, and then tapped everything up securely, wired up the power from a secondary feed, active only when the ignition is on and connted up to the fuse.
All good, works sweet.




another couple of good mods is to change the original fuse box for the relopcation kit and also fit an accessory fuse kit as well.
I mounted these on the left sife by the solinoid, behind the black plastic cover, where I also mounted another 12v socket waterproof socket.
The relocation kit

The accessory fuse kit

Mounting them here takes a bit of maguyvery, but the fit and it is so much easier to get to the fuses




Loud Horns

Horn Upgrade

I had these Fiamm horns on my dominator and they are good horns, loaud like a car dual horn so when I saw Mark net was installing them on his KLR I thought I'd give mine a go, because of the size of them his placing was a start as to where to put them, but on the 08 model, with the Happy Trail nerf bars mounted through the fairing side panel, this was not going to be possible on my 08 model.
THe solution for me was too mount the inside the side fairings, but forward of the radiator and overfolw bottle, see pics


I bought some 1.2mm metal strips and set about bending and cutting a vertical mounting strip, that I clamped to the nerf bar on the bottom and drilled a hole at the top so that the inside 10mm, original mounting bolt that goes through the fairing mounting to its moounting point also went through my new mounting bracket as well.
I mount the horns to these brackets and used the wireing diagram as a guide from, Marknet, for my wiring. I wired my horns into the accessory fuse kit, with its own dedicated fuse.

NOW WARNING
If you follow my mounting there is a short cicuit, on the radiator side
You get this if you make a support bracket from the horn strip mount wher it connects to the raidiator mount and the top frame.

THis is where the horn strip mounts underneath and as you can see, I have a support bracket on the otherside of the radiator shroud and the raidiator mount, which then goes up and is connected to the top frame mount


THE HORNS WILL CONSTANTLY BE ON AS SOON AS TURN ON THE IGNITION, there seems to be a positive feed somewhere. I could not trace it, but solved the problem, by wrapping the mounting strap in insulating tape and fabricating rubber wahers to go either side of the top mount strip seperating it from direct metal contact to the top fairing frame. When the bolt goes threough and secures it in place, there is no short circuit and the horns function only when the horn button is pressed. connect the bracket directly to the top fairing frame and the horns activate automatically, so be aware and address ,this, unlees you can sort out the short circuit better than I could.

Now I put this bracket in because the horns is heavy and I did not want to over stress the radiator mount with the extra weight, especially when off road vibrations and jolting happens, but if you do not want to use a bracket like this you will not have the problem, by mounting the horn strip to the radiator mounting lug. Only if you use a support bracket, you will need to isolate it.


Water bottle side horn, bottom mounting bracket and strip.


Radiator side horn, bottom mounting bracket and strip.


Water bottle side horn, top mounting bracket and strip.


Radiator side horn, top mounting bracket and strip.

Once all done they work properly and sound great with the sound projected forward and helped bt the side fairings.
The horns mounted this way are also tucked away out of sight just behind the side fairngs, with the horn grills viewable from the front.
THey also do not interfer with the movement of the front wheel or shocks or cables.
Just insulate all your cables and cable tie them to the nerf bars support bar that runs around infront of the radiator and water bottle.


Heated Grips

I fitted oxford heated grips, as they are a reasonable price and good quality.
THey do different grip types and I got the diamond pattern grip as it has a rough grip, which will be better off road.
Make sure you get the right size for your handle bars, mine were 7/8th size.
Just follow the mounting instructions, they are pretty clear.
I mounted the control box on the clutch side, so I turn them on and off while riding easily.
I mounted it between the switch gear and the GPS mount, see pic


I ran the cables down the clutch side fork stem between the top and bottom braces and then down the frame under the tank and wired it into the relocation fuse kit and used the original horn fuse 10amp.



Make sure that the wire lugs on the grips do not make contact with the clutch when pulled fully in and the throttle wire does not get caught on anything and has free movement.
I found these positions for the mounting lugs on the grips to be correct for me.

Clutch side


Throttle side closed



Again I wired these in of a secondary live feed, so can only be operated when the ignition is on and switch off when the ignition is turned off, thus, stopping getting a flat battery by accidentally leaving on!!

Taller Screen

I fitted the laminar lip screen, as this has lees head buffetting at speeds over 80kph, than the kawasaki +4 screen which I originally had fitted.
Now before you all start a thread on ADV about this screen stuff, I am five foot six inches tall, a short arse, I know, so this is what I found works for me!!
All you bigger guys and girls will have to work out for yourselves what is best for you.
Any way here is the pictures, AARRGGHH AARRGGHH








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FRONT SUSPENSION

I replaced the original front suspension caps with adjustable pre-load ones from these guys

http://www.motowizard.com/




These are really easy to install and come with the shorter spacers.
They are easily adjusted by usung a 14mm spanner on the top nut to screw clockwise for more pre-load or counter clockwise for less.

I fitted these with the progressive fork springs from Happy-Trails,
http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/KLR650-%2808-%29-Fork-Springs__11-1506.aspx




along with their fork brace, great bit of kit and strenghens the forks.

http://www.happy-trail.com/Products/2008-plus--Kawasaki-KLR650br-K-9-Fork-Brace__HTP4-8-9.aspx



This is a really good set up, as it stiffens iup the front end, so you don't get that dive under braking and a much more possitive feel when off road!!
especially when fully loaded!!

Well worth the money!!


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REAR SUSPENSION

The original rear shock for me was to soft, so I opted to have one built, to my requirements, and with Hydraulic adjuster.

I opted for one by Wilbers Shocks.
these are better quality springs than Ohlins and less money, what more do ypou want!!
I opted for 7.5kg spring, set at 15mm pre-load on the collar, with a further 10mm with the hydraulic adjuster!!



The damping adjuster is the RED knurled nut at the bottom which is easily adjusted when the shock is mounted.





I had to make my own bracket to mount the pre-load adjuster, and found some old brackets and bloted them together and painted them in Hammerite grey mettal flake paint, and mounted it off the battery cover mounting bolt.
This allowed the adjusted to fit in the space on the  clutch side of the frame, where it is easy to reach, but out of the way and does not interfer with the riders legs when sitting of standing.
Brilliant!!!



Love this shock it is such an improvement!!



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COOLING

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ELECTRICS

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ENGINE

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EXHAUST

What exhaust to fit, now, I originally chose a laser exhaust, because I had used them before and they are good quality.
I ordered one from FosterRad performance, who took over 4 months to send me the wrong exhaust, blaqming every one else for their mistakes, such as
1) saying it was in Australian customs, but I tracked it via USPS to be stiil in JFK airport because they used the wrong shipping form!!
2) The Top Guy Robert telling me they would send and after I chase them for another three weeks he tells me it has been sent!!
3) but, then Lenny emails me asking what type of bike the replacemnt is for??!!
4) Lenny then says he will send one, but I was already told three weeks previous by Robert one had already been sent.
5) failing to respond to emails and phone messages, both from me and Fred Hink, chasing up these fuckwits to get their shit together!!,without constant emails before they bother to respond to one.
6) then telling me they have arrange a replacement from Laser directly to be sent
7) when this arrives 4 weeks later it is not for a KLR but a yamaha??, but the packing list is checked and approved as being all parts for a KLR
8) Robert offering me my money back 100%, but then saying a replacement part has been sent from lasert, but when I contact laser directly, they know nothing of this replacement exhaust or incorrect part to be replaced!!!
9) Charging me $125 USD postage, but shipping only cost $USD 87.68
10) when I complained Lenny tells me and I quote {THere is only so much in life they can do}

So I replied to him well I may be only one man, you don't give a shit about, but here is what I can do in life....
1) I made a complaint to the http://www.ftc.gov  the FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION and the http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au The Australian Office of Fair Trading.
Oh and these guys
http://www.irs.gov INTERNAL REVENUE SERVICE.

2) Returned the wrong exhaust to Fred hink, with a word doc of all the emails I received from the FUCKWIT BROTHERS, with my responses and asked for my money back as I paid Fred for it in Febuary and Only in June did I receive the WRONG exhaust!!

3) Fred refunded my money and I bought a StaineTune exhaust who make them and are Australian. exhaust arrived in three days, was the sorrect type and a perfect fit!!. Plus the quality is much better than Laser and Is a very nice loud tone to it, with the baffler in. Remove the baffler and , WOW LOUD!!

I am very impressed and pleased with the StaineTune pipe.
Get yourself one of these!!!




I will never buy anything from Laser again!!



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FUEL & CARBURETOR

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SEAT

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WHEEL & TYRES

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FARKELING

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BITS & BOBS

I replaced the original heat deflector plate with a much large one
I made ,myself from 1.2mm mild steel.
Why would I doe this...... well I did not want this to happen to me!!

Heat plate does not cover airbox properly, and exposes airbox to exhaust and get a hole like this.



So I removed the exhaust and bits and bobs and then removed the original plate, by undoing the two bottom screws an d the front one.



THe original is less than six inches long and also does not cover the back edge of the airbox.



I set about working out a design that coveres all the airbox, and fitted the original mounting points, so I could use the original mountinh crews.
I Also had to make space for the airbox breather and drain pipes and cover the back edge and the rear slope, where the middle exhaust pipe goes up to meet the muffler.
After three attempts I came up with this beauty!!, much larger than the origianl and covers all my requirements.

The plates are looking from the top side which will go against the bottom of the airbox, and as you look at the photo the right side towards the engine.
Also you might think that I have made it too big, but beadvised the bottom plate I made right hand side / engine, the edge just over hangs the airbox bu 1.5mm!!
Thjat is how short the original is, laeving airbox exposed!!








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